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Of hills and vales…

There are many hills stations in the North, but few match the charm and opportunities for adventure that Mussoorie and Manali have to offer.

If you're looking for a holiday amidst the mountains, where the air is clean and pure and the streams teeming with life, venture North. Mussoorie and Manali are two towns, in two states, each with a charm of their own. Here a Koel is your only wake up call and the sound f gurgling brooks a gentle lullaby. Mussoorie is nestled on a ridge overlooking a valley, while Manali is actually at the head of the Kulu Valley. So let's go on gentle ramble over hill and down vale as we discover these delightful destinations and their invigorating environs.

You have to hand it to the British. Their greatest gift to leisure in India, isn't cricket, but a plethora of hill-stations scattered around the country. Invariably, so British Officer would chance upon a little hamlet, fall in love with it, set up a lodge there and before you knew it, it had become a summer retreat for the burra sahibs. Predictably, Mussoorie too was discovered by one Captain Young, way back in 1823. Over the years, it grew into a typical Victorian resort with a long promenade, church, library and a club. Obviously, Mussoorie's proximity to Delhi, (only 278 kms) , and its location on a high-serrated ridge, have been chiefly responsible for its popularity.

"Let the beauty of Mussoorie's environs seep into your soul as you gaze at the snow capped peaks in the distance."

As you drive from Delhi to Mussoorie and ascend over 2000m you are greeted with panoramic vistas of the snow-covered Himalayan peaks of the Western Garhwal, as well as the dramatic views of the Dehra Dun valley below. A fine welcome for a sweaty traveller from the plains, seeking a spot of fresh, pine-scented air. Today, Mussoorie is a bustling little town, that extends 15 kilometres along a ridge and is surrounded with a mountain panorama that's gentle and pleasing to the eye. Take a long, rambling walk towards the outskirts of the town and let the beauty of Mussoorie's environs seep into your soul as you gaze at the snow capped peaks in the distance. The enigmatically named Bunderpunch (monkey's tail) massif (6316m) and Swargarohini (ascent to heaven) (6252m) range in the west and the Gangotri Group in the east almost encircle the town, making you feel completely at one with nature.

Over the years, Mussoorie has been flooded with all sorts of hotels and lodges to cater to the needs of tourist. And yet, it has miraculously been able to retain its laid-back atmosphere.
This is not one of your typical sight-seeing, whizz-around-the -town kind of spots. Mussoorie reeks old-world charm and is a haven for those who just want to chill out for a while. If you're in the mood for some company or feel like picking up some provisions, the Mall's the place for you. It's a long promenade, lined with shops which surprisingly enough faces away from the snow-capped peaks. For a bird's eye view of the town, climb up to Gun Hill, which rises like a volcano from central Mussoourie. You have the option of doing the climb on foot or pony on a bridle path that forks up from the Kutcheri (Court House) or on the 400-metre "Ropeway" cable-car ride from the Mall. The Hill gets its name from the fact that it houses a gun which used to be fired at noon every day, to enable the residents to set their watches!

On the other hand, you could always take a peaceful stroll or the ride around the three-kilometre-long Camel's Back Road, which girdles the northern base of Gun Hill, passing by the distinctive Camel's Rock. The nice thing about Mussoorie is that you can see the snow-capped peaks from most of the walking tracks, which makes walking around the own so much more enjoyable. Just stretch your legs, take a breath of fresh mountain air and wander at will. If you want a better view of the environs, drive down to Children's Lodge. It's just 5 kms from the Mall and happens to be the highest point in the vicinity. Musoorie also has a considerable Tibetan population and most of them reside in Happy Valley, 3 kms from the library. Happy Valley holds a large school and the small but beautiful Tchechen Choling gompa . The ideal thing to do is to take a walk along the wooded roads from the Mall to the settlement, and from the hubbub to a world of peace and tranquillity. The Gompa is brightly coloured and surrounded by well- manicured gardens, giving it an air of vibrancy and serenity. As long as you're not looking for the fast-paced buzz of city life, Mussoorie is the perfect place to unwind in and allows you to discover its pristine beauty at your own leisurely pace.

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