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Where the stones tell tales…

Walk through the forts, mausoleums and palaces in Agra and Fatehpur Sikri and you can almost hear them whisper tales of love and heroism into your unsuspecting ears.

Set on the banks of the Yamuna River, Agra is probably the only city in India, which despite its rich cultural and historical heritage, is known for one monument alone. That ultimate tribute to eternal love …the Taj Mahal. Think of Agra and the legendary tales of love, valour and opulent living of the Mughals springs to mind. Babur, Akbar, Aurangzeb, Jahangir and Shah Jahan, all in their own way contributed to the historical significance of this city. Throughout their combined rule, the seat of power oscillated between Delhi, Agra and for a very brief period, Fatehpur Sikri too. The result is that all three sites have become icons of the past glory of the Mughal Empire.

Over the last 400 odd-years, the Mughals, Marathas and the British have contributed to Agra's architectural beauty in their own special way. What has emerged is a stately melange Hindu and Islamic styles, with a touch of Middle Eastern influences to add to it all.

Sikandar Lodi's sandstone and marble fortress and Akbar's resting place, Sikandara, is a prime example. You walk through a giant gateway, Buland Darwaza, decorated with striking mosaic patterns into a garden enclosure. The four-storey mausoleum, with its four marble minarets lies at the centre of a huge walled garden. Akbar's tomb is in an underground crypt, which is lit by a single shaft of light, falling on the sepulchre. The tomb exudes peace and tranquillity, and inscriptions with the 99 names of Allah, give the setting a religious touch.

"The Fort isn't just a fort, but a mini-city, with imperial quarters, gardens, mosques and palaces."

As we let Akbar lie in peace at Sikandara, let's move on to one of his finest contributions to Agra's military prowess - the Agra fort. Akbar built the first walls, gates and buildings of the Fort, Shah Jahan added the stately imperial quarters and Aurangzeb, the outer ramparts. The Fort isn't just a fort, but a mini-city, with imperial quarters, gardens, mosques and palaces. Impressive 20 metre high walls, a wide moat and ingenious devices are used in the architecture to make the enemy vulnerable to attack from various quarters…if they manage to get in, that is.

A quick tour around the Fort is all you need to get an idea of the grandiose style the Mughals were accustomed to living in. Jahangari Mahal, a simply decorated stone palace was built by Akbar in 1570, most probably to house the royal ladies of the court. Take a look at the large stone bathing-bowl in the courtyard and you can almost see the ladies bathing in it in rose scented water. Islamic arches inlaid with white marble decorate the façade while the balconies, eaves and domed umbrellas along its length are distinctly Hindu in style.

Anguri Bagh, on the other hand are formal, square geometric gardens with a central pool in the middle of a white marble platform. The water from the pool mimicked streams and fed fountains with seating areas around them. At night Anguri Bagh would be transformed into a magical place, with lamps twinkling and water rippling throughout the garden.

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